ping pong table: Draaksbad Ranch in Lassen National Park

Draaksbad Ranch in Lassen National Park
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"There are no keys at Drakesbad," says Billie, our hostess, ...

by Kriss Hammond

Draaksbad Ranch in Lassen National Park
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"There are no keys at Drakesbad," says Billie, our hostess, while introducing us to the lay of the land. "We're on the honor system." This applies to everything from the sodas and beer in the ice buckets to the items in the concession store. Candy bars, sweatshirts, and books about the history of Drakesbad - you sign your name and room number on the roster and settle up upon your departure.

Not that you'd be in any hurry to leave Drakesbad Ranch. The guests that have visited year after year for generations know that Drakesbad is a place you'll want to spend some time.

It's not easy to get to Drakesbad, but that's part of what makes it so worthwhile. Hidden in the southern side of California's Lassen Volcanic National Park, the ranch is accessible only by a narrow country road that winds over three one lane bridges before losing its pavement before turning up a gravel track. The last few miles are unpaved, but easily navigable by careful drivers. Nope, no need for four wheel drive.

We arrived in time for lunch and dined on a buffet of fresh salads and deli fixings. Meals are included with the price of your stay. The staff understands that you might want to spend the day hiking in the surrounding splendor; they will pack a sack lunch for you if you sign up the night before. The kitchen is happy to accommodate any special dietary needs if you let them know before arrival.

After dining al fresco in the afternoon sunshine, we headed out to Devil's Kitchen. The lodge sits on the edge ofLet's Soak in Volcanic Hot Springs an expansive meadow frequented by dragonflies, mule deer, and red winged blackbirds, to name just a few of the remarkable denizens. We crossed the meadow to the forest and hiked up a moderately easy trail shared with horseback riders. (The ranch maintains a corral of horses and offers rides for all skill levels.) The two-mile hike ends in an array of steam vents and boiling mud pots. Deposits of sulfur coat the rocks and the air is filled with steam. Yes, there is a strong smell, described to us in advanced by two little boys on the trail: "It's really stinky up there!" This is just one of a number of hiking destinations and the ranch even keeps a canoe at one of the nearby lakes - but you have to take advantage of that early in the season. The lakes are formed by snow melt and evaporate by the end of summer.

When we returned to the ranch, I poured myself a glass of cold lemonade that's available all afternoon outside the dining room. Then we explored the possibilities the ranch offers for the most essential of vacation activities: doing NOTHING. A covered porch offers comfortable seating and a shady place to rest. There's a hammock hanging above a circle of wild trillium. My favorite place was the bench swing on the edge of the meadow where the deer came to graze. And of course, there's a pool for lazy soaking and sunbathing.

It's not just any pool, though. It's fed by the hot springs up the valley. For over 100 years people have taken comfort in these healing waters.

Accommodations at Drakesbad are rustic but very clean and comfortable. Our room, paneled in knotty pine, had its own half bath, but for showers, we used the bathhouse down by the pool. A few of the cabins have full baths, and seasoned Drakesbad guests were heard to suggest that taking such a cabin would be "copping out" on the Drakesbad way of life. Mind you, the same guests were heard to suggest that brushing your hair for dinner was also copping out.

Drakesbad is plenty kid friendly, with games and puzzles in the common lodge, a ping pong table, and a terrific tire swing in the shape of a pony. Even swimming pool toys are provided.

The dinner bell rings promptly at six, but there's no hurry. Show up any time before seven and you'll be fed, and fed well. We dined on tilapia and fresh vegetables, prepared with an Asian flair. Our hosts, Ed and Billie, made the rounds, welcoming the new guests and sharing pictures from previous years with the regulars. The youngster at our table bolted his food and rushed out to join the sunset horseback ride with the other kids while his mom enjoyed her meal at a more leisurely pace.

The kids returned as evening settled in around us. Dusk hours at Drakesbad are quiet but still social, with families playing board games in the lodge or sitting around the campfire. Drakesbad generously supplies the makings for s'Mores, but you'll want to get there quick if there are a lot of kids around - any that weren't on the ride had rushed to the campfire to build their own toasted marshmallow treats. The lights go out around 10 p.m., leaving you to the starlight and the glow of the kerosene lanterns. You can soak in the pool under the stars or curl up in the comfort of your room.

Gourmet Dining at Drakesbad - Ranch StyleBreakfast follows the same routine as dinner, with a bell to let you know that it's time to fuel up for the day. We had 'scrambles' just the way I like them (and I'm fussy about my eggs!). Ed poured hot chocolate for our young table mate with the flair of the finest of European maitre 'ds. The sack lunches, ordered at dinner the night before were stacked on the stairs, ready for hikers and riders.

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Pam, Jetsetters Magazine Correspondent – Read Jetsetters Magazine at www.jetsettersmagazine.com To book travel visit Jetstreams.com at www.jetstreams.com and for Beach Resorts visit Beach Booker at www.beachbooker.com



About the Author

Pam, Jetsetters Magazine Correspondent. Join the Travel Writers Network in the logo at www.jetsettersmagazine.com Leave your email next to the logo for FREE e travel newsletter.